EDITOR’S NOTE: With Nissan slated to unveil a concept version of its next-generation Nissan Z sports car on September 15, we figured you’d enjoy a look back at its progenitor, the Datsun 240Z, from the fall 2010 issue of MotorTrend Classic.
When I was in high school in the 1970s, the Datsun Z was the machine the sports car crowd all wanted, and I was among them. Of course, I wanted mine in groovy root-beer brown metallic with aftermarket slot mags just like those on the pristine example in these photos. My muffler guy had a slick dual-exhaust system all sourced out and ready to go.
The original Datsun 240Z that broke ground here in the United States for the 1970 model year was Japan’s first credible volume sports car effort. (The Toyota 2000GT was beautiful but rare and expensive.)
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The Z had it all: Performance, Japanese reliability, an affordable sticker (although dealers did try to mark them up, of course), and all the right hardware. The car magazines raved about them, and so did everyone I knew who owned or was somehow able to test drive one.
Launched initially only as a two-seater, the budget Jaguar E-Type formula was clear and present: long hood, short deck, a revvy overhead-cam six, independent suspension, rack-and-pinion steering, a four-speed transmission, and full gauges—real sports car credentials. The 2.4-liter SOHC six was an upsized relative of Datsun’s robust 2.0-liter I-4. Both are composed of an iron block with an aluminum OHC head; induction came courtesy of dual side-draft Hitachi carbs. The only trans offered in the U.S. was a four-speed manual (other markets got a five-speed, and an optional three-speed automatic showed up in 1971). Although 150 horsepower doesn’t sound like much these days, it was plenty for a close-coupled sport coupe weighing around 2,400 pounds.
The interior is handsome enough and comfortable for even the tallest occupants. The switchgear is pure 1970s Japanese, a bit plasticky and the materials are not terribly robust. Dashes are often cracked and covered with a woven mat of some sort. Much of the interior trim is quilted vinyl, which is commonly recovered with carpeting; reproduction kits are available. The factory wood steering wheel is an expensive piece; cracked ones can be repaired.
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The aftermarket erupted with body modifications and go-fast goodies. Many early Zs have been heavily modified. It’s our suggestion to stay away from these pieces, unless that’s your taste and modification is what you intend to do with the car anyway.
Many have been bobbed of their bumpers, and more than a few Chevy V-8s have found their way beneath those long Datsun hoods. It’s getting harder to find unmolested, original examples. Good ones command a premium, but they’re a value as opposed to trying to bring a clapper back from the dead.
We asked one owner the three most important problem issues to look for, and he said, “Rust, rust, and rust.” The factory’s rustproofing efforts were so-so, and these cars trap water in all kinds of places. The bases of the tailgates rust out, plus the usual spots like doorsills, rocker panels, around the windshields, and the edges of the fenders. Pay more for a rust-free example; it’ll be cheaper and nicer in the end. Carburetor linkages can be finicky, and fuse blocks are known to melt down. Modified, overly stiff suspensions can cause cracks in the frame, especially near suspension mounting points.
Z engines love frequent oil changes and a fresh 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water to make sure the iron block and alloy head don’t develop corrosion in the cooling system. The shifter is a bit sloppy in its gates, although the trans and clutch are relatively long-lived items if the car hasn’t been abused. Clunky suspensions indicate worn bushings, although replacement parts are plentiful.
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Back to rust for a moment. Have the car checked to ensure its suspension pickup and mounting points are solid and not rusted away. Installing new shocks, fresh bushings, and wheel bearings in a high-mile car will usually accomplish wonders for ride, handling, and running noise reduction.
Avoid cars that have been crashed and poorly repaired or cheaply repainted. The Z has many subtle body lines, and they often get lost in translation if the car has been oversanded or too-thickly painted.
Factory rolling stock on early 240Zs consisted of 5.5-inch steel wheels with hubcaps. Junkyards were filled with them in the 1970s, although finding clean originals is a little tougher today. Most cars have had a swap to wider, aftermarket rims by now. No problem, but don’t go crazy on width; 7.0 inches seems a comfortable maximum so as not to overstress the suspension, increase the steering effort too much, wear the steering system, and/or kill the ride.
Most of the rest of the usual “buying an old sports car” rules apply: Find an expert to give the car you’re looking at a thorough inspection, plan on some recommissioning expenses, drive, and enjoy. Even though it is not strictly original, many owners recommend installing a strut tower brace in the engine compartment, which connects the front shock towers and adds structural rigidity to the front part of the frame.
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These Datsuns were successful race cars, too. Peter Brock’s BRE team tore up the West Coast Sports Car Club of America events at the wheel of a Z, and one P.L. Newman, driving for Bob Sharp Racing in Connecticut, did the same on the right coast, as well. Sharp himself won two SCCA national titles aboard Zs.
A tight, crisp 240 still defines the Datsun Z-car experience, and they’re sure to be most collectible in the future. Any 240Z in good fettle is great fun and should be a drivable weekend sports car.
Datsun Z: Through the Years
1971 The transmission and rear differential were mildly revised. Optional automatic transmission offered.
1972 Compression ratio was reduced on U.S. models.
1973 The engine and intake systems further revised to meet emissions requirements, and the Z grew larger, rubber-capped bumpers to meet the new crash specs.
1974 The engine was enlarged to 2.6 liters, and the car became the 260Z for one year only. It’s still substantially the same piece, but most collectors prefer the more “pure,” pre-crash bumper 240s. A new 2+2 body style was offered at the same time.
1975 Another bump in displacement begat the 280Z. This stretched out the original Z’s body shape and platform through the 1978 model year. Some of the performance losses were regained via the displacement bump and the addition of fuel injection (280Z only), but the 260s and 280s are heavier and don’t feel as spirited and lithe as the first-generation Z.
1979 The original Z is redesigned and renamed the 280ZX. The new car is larger, roomier, and relies more on electronics. T-tops were also offered, although they tended to leak and reduced the chassis structural rigidity. The two-seat and 2+2 body styles continue, running an updated version of the fuel injected 2.8-liter engine that made its debut on the 280Z. The original Zs remain the most highly sought among them, but there is a small but growing groundswell of collector interest in 280ZXs.
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Special Datsun Z Models
During the Z-car’s production hiatus, Nissan offered a program where it acquired solid 240Zs and contracted with an independent Southern California specialist called Pierre Z to restore them. In 1997, you could buy one through a Nissan dealer; they’re identified by a small plaque on the console, just aft of the shifter. The cars were restored to near factory original condition using OEM parts and cost $25,000- $29,000. Or you could bring Nissan your Z, and it would put it through the process. Either way, you got a nearly new 25-year-old car backed by Nissan, and they bring strong prices today if maintained and still in good shape.
What’s Hot
The original Z still feels relevant and is fun to drive as a sports car. A good supply of OEM and aftermarket parts are available, and the cars are relatively straightforward to work on. There are several parts companies and shops that specialize in Zs.
What’s Not
Many cars have been highly modified, ridden hard, and put away wet (and rusty). Inspect carefully and seek out solid examples. Better cars will cost more up front and be less costly and more enjoyable to own in the long run.
Hot Tip
Pay more if you need to for a car in top condition; you’ll save money in the long run.
Avoid
Rusty, previously crashed (hard), and heavily modified cars with engine swap.
Most Collectible Datsun Z
Clean, stock, original 1970 240Z.
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Best Performer
Ditto.
Best Daily Driver Datsun Z
Any year 240 works well for moderate duty, although they don’t get great fuel mileage—something to consider if you plan to use your 240Z as a daily runner. The ’73 model’s drivability suffered given revised emissions controls. Some prefer the later 280Z as an everyday driver because the larger displacement and the addition of fuel injection improved cold starts and drivability.
Bottom Line
A Japanese sports car icon then and today, and respected as a classic from a country that doesn’t yet have many. Buy the best one you can find and afford. Also makes a great weekend club racer, and minor mods can enhance performance substantially.
Clubs
Zclub.net, Zcar.com, Zcca.org
Books
- Datsun 240Z & 260Z Gold Portfolio, contemporary road tests compiled by R.M. Clarke; published by Brooklands books
- How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car, by Wick Humble, published by California Bill’s Automotive Handbooks
- How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine, covers L-Series engines, four-cylinder 1968-1978, six-cylinder 1970-1984, by Tom Monroe
- Haynes Datsun 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z Manual, 1970–1978, by John Haynes
Parts and Goodies
Zcarparts.com
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